Toe-Up Faux Heel Flap Socks – Worsted Weight

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Purple toe-up socks with heel flap, shown out of car window
Purple toe-up socks with heel flap, shown from the side, on tip-toe

By popular demand! A basic toe-up sock pattern with a knitted-in heel flap that fits your heel snugly and that you can adjust for a high instep.

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Pattern Details

  • Sizes: Small/Medium, Medium/Large
  • Finished Measurements: To fit foot circumference: 7(8) inches


  • Yarn: 180 yds worsted-weight yarn. If working two socks at one time, you’ll need two separate balls of yarn.
  • Needles: 1 pair circular needles, 47" for two-at-a-time, 40-47" for one-at-a-time
  • Needle size: US 7 (4.5 mm) or size required to get gauge (4.5 sts/in)
  • Notions: Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle


  • 4.5 sts/in in St st


  • BOR – Beginning of Round
  • CC – Contrasting Color
  • CO – Cast On
  • Instep – The half of the sock that goes around the front of the ankle
  • K – Knit
  • K2TOG – Knit 2 Together
  • M1L – Make One Left
  • M1R – Make One Right
  • MC – Main Color
  • P – Purl
  • P2TOG – Purl 2 Together
  • PM – Place Marker
  • PSO – Pass Stitch Over
  • Sl 1 – Slip 1
  • SM – Slip marker
  • SSK – Slip, Slip, Knit
  • St St – Stockinette Stitch
  • W&T – Wrap and turn
  • WS – Wrong Side

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5 thoughts on “Toe-Up Faux Heel Flap Socks – Worsted Weight”

  1. Do you have a formula for figuring how many stitches to knit before 1st wrap & turn, how many to purl before 1st purl w&t if using other total stitches

    1. Hi again,
      Here’s how to understand the heel formula you were asking about.
      The width of the heel flap is the number of stitches on half the sock, minus two.
      I’ll show you examples for each sock – just take size Small for the examples.

      Worsted-Weight Version
      For the worsted-weight sock, half the sock, before increasing, is 14 stitches. Subtract two – that’s 12 stitches. Your heel flap will be 12 sts wide, centered in the middle of the heel stitches. Since you increase to 32 sts before starting the heel flap, find the number of stitches that is NOT the heel flap (32-12=20). Divide that in half = 10 sts on either side of the heel flap. To start the knit row, knit 10 + heel flap = 10+12 = 22 sts. Subtract 1 to account for the W&T and that’s why the first knit row of the heel flap is “k21, W&T.” The purl row is then 12 sts (the width of the heel flap) minus two = 10 sts. The fact that I’ve added one to the knit row and subtracted two from the purl row is just to make the sizes come out right, because with so few stitches in this worsted-weight heel flap, you have to round up or down. The formula below, for the fingering-weight pattern, is exact:

      Fingering-Weight Version:
      Half the sock, before increasing for the gusset, is 24 stitches. Subtract two – that’s 22 stitches. That will be the width of the heel flap. Since you increase to 46 sts before starting the heel flap, to center the heel flap, find the number of stitches that is NOT the heel flap (46-22=24). Divide that in half = 12 sts on either side of the heel flap. To start the knit row, knit 12 + heel flap = 12+22 = 34 sts. The purl row is then the exact width of the heel flap = 22 sts.

      I hope this helps! I enjoyed answering your question – love the curiosity you show. Let me know if you have any more questions.



        Thank you for this formula – I’m having trouble making my brain get this right. I’m trying to do a larger size worsted and would like to cast on 36 stitches (18 on the heel needle). Would I increase the heel needle to 36? And if 36 is correct, then would the work & turns come out to K26, P14?

        I love this pattern so much, thank you. A 36 stitch version would be so great because with worsted yarn I could make a man-size sock, and it would also make a perfect baby sock with fingering weight.

        1. Hi there!
          Sorry it’s taken me so long to get back to you. I love the idea of modifying this sock to make a men’s large. I’ll publish the pattern update soon, but in the meantime, here are the general numbers you need:
          Cast on 36 sts (18 on heel needle).
          Gusset: Increase until heel needle contains 36 sts. The heel flap is still 12 sts wide.
          Heel Turn:
          Row 1: K23, W&T.
          Row 2: P10, W&T.

          Please let me know if these numbers work out correctly for you! If so, I’ll publish an update to the pattern and include this men’s-large size.
          Thanks so much!

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